Introduction
Most regular bridge clubs are affiliated with their National
Bridge Federation (or League).
This gives them the right to take part in the Master points
system where session winners and higher ranked placings are
rewarded Master points. When accumulated it elevates a player's
status to various Master levels.
This Master points lure has attracted large numbers of players
and transformed Duplicate bridge into a highly competitive sport
played at Local, Regional, National and International
levels.
However the system has two notable negative aspects.
- To qualify for Master points a single bridge session must
contain a minimum of 22 boards played. Most clubs
conduct sessions of 24 to 30 boards, which usually takes 3-4 hours
to complete.
-
Because of its competitive nature much of the social aspect of
the game is lost, and (especially at the basic levels) attitudes
at the bridge table can be tense if not inhospitable.
I personally have always been more of a social bridge player,
playing bridge with my friends at High school, then University and
finally in the Dutch army during my National service. We usually
played for money, a great incentive to improve
our skills.
During the past 40 years or so (while living in Australia and
Papua New Guinea), I have started half a dozen social bridge
clubs, deliberately not affiliated with any Bridge federation and
therefore free of Master points.
This ensured a wonderful
amicable attitude at the bridge table at all times and great
enjoyment of the game by all participants.
My experience of establishing and running these new bridge
clubs have culminated in the concept of social duplicate
bridge which I am now developing in our Social Bridge Club in
Darwin (in Northern Australia).
The concept is still evolving, but already highly successful at
this stage.
Concept
Our primary target audience are hard working professionals, who
enjoy mental stimulation but in a relaxed social environment
with like-minded people. And they definitely don't want to play until late
in the evening and get home by midnight, as they need to be at
work early the next day.
Such environment also appeals to
retired professionals and others with an intelligent, discerning
inclination.
Our concept is defined by the above human requisites.
- No Master points
regime
This immediately enables a friendly social environment at the
bridge tables.
It also gives the Director complete freedom
to make decisions in the spirit of the Club's objective (not
according to strictly policed rules and regulations).
- Bridge sessions strictly limited to
2 hours
In the evenings from 7-9pm, so that players can be home before 9.30pm, a reasonable
time.
Our club runs at least 3 bridge sessions each week, so that
players have ample choice on when to participate.
- Mental stimulation
Besides the regular duplicate bridge sessions, we run 2 to 4 lessons or
coaching sessions each week on basic, intermediate and advanced
subjects.
The Club promotes an intelligent but natural bidding system,
which enables continuous and seamless progress from
Beginners Basics to an Intermediate and Advanced level of
bidding. Most players follow this system, which helps to
stimulate
the improvement of skill levels for all.
Online practice for
all levels is also available on our Club's website.
- Regular social functions
Our Club organises regular social functions once a month, usually
combined with a bridge session.
This helps to grow the mutual
bonds of acquaintance and friendship, which in turn contributes
enormously to the friendly atmosphere at the bridge table.
Suitable movements
Running 2-hour duplicate sessions requires 12 boards to be played
by Beginners or around 15 boards for more experienced players.
For this purpose the following Table Guide cards can be used
:
- 2-Table Howell for 8 players
and 12 or 15 boards
Three sets of 4 or 5 boards are used depending on players'
experience. Each set is relayed between the two tables. For the
first round place Boards 1 and 2 on Table 1 and Boards 3, 4 and 5
(or just 3 and 4) on Table 2
When both Tables have completed
their boards switch them across, so that each board is played by
both tables.
Next round use the second set of boards (6-10).
Guide Cards for Tables 1 and
2
- 3-Table Howell for 12 players
and 12 or 15 boards
Five sets of 3 boards are used. Place them on each table as shown
on the Guide cards, then shift them each round as shown on the
Guide cards.
Only 4 of the 5 boards sets are used the first 4 rounds.
The
final (5th) round boards 13-15 are used. Place one board on each
table and rotate them around after each table has played their
(single) board.
This set-up enables you to stop after 4 rounds (and 12 boards
played) if time is running out.
Guide Cards for Tables 1 and
2 - Table 3
- 4-Table Howell for 16 players
and 14 boards
The 4-table Howell is great fun as you still get to play against
all other pairs.
Using 2-board rounds you can complete the
whole movement with just 14 boards.
Distribute the boards as
shown here.
The movement
requires "Byes" between Table 1 and 2 and between Tables 2 and 3.
Once laid out properly you can simply rotate the board sets
down the table numbers at the end of each round.
Guide Cards for Tables 1 and
2 - Table 3 and 4
- 4½-Table Howell for 18
players, 14 boards and 4 tables
With 18 players (9 pairs) you can still use the 4-Table Howell
movement.
Pair 9 sits out the first round, then permanently
sits at Table 4 EW for the remaining 6 rounds.
The pair coming
from Table 2 who normally would next sit at Table 4 EW now sits
out one round, then move to Table 4 NS and follow their normal
route from there onwards.
Use the 4-Table Howell Guide cards for Tables 1 and 3, use the
alternative 4½Table Guide cards for Table 2 and Table 4 as
supplied here.
- 5+Table Mitchell movements for
20 players or more
Table numbers : Tables 1 & 2 | 3 & 4 |
5 & 6 |
In a Mitchell movement NS players stay stationary all rounds.
After each round EW players move up one table, Boards
move down one table.
NS pairs take their number from
the Table number, EW pairs Table number plus 10.
- 5 tables : use five sets of 3 boards, total 15
boards
Use a 5-table Mitchell, no special requirements.
- 5½ tables : use five sets of 3 boards, total 15
boards and 5 tables
Use a 5-table Mitchell with NS Rover pair. Pair 6 NS is the Rover pair. It sits out the first round,
then plays following rounds at Table 2, 4, 1 and 3 (each time
bumping out for one round only the resident NS pair on that
table).
Rover Pair Guide cards (Print out in "Landscape" format)
- 6 tables : 6 sets of 2 boards, 12 boards total
Use a 6-table Mitchell with
a Bye between Table 3 and Table 4 with one set of
boards.
Tables 1 and 6 share the boards each round (Boards layout).
This way all
players get to play all 12 boards.
- 6½ tables : 7 sets of 2 boards, 14 boards
total and 7 tables
Use a 7-table Mitchell.
EW Pair 17 starts at Table 7, which is the sit-out table
- 7 tables : 7 sets of 2 boards, 14 boards total
Normal 7-table Mitchell, no special requirements
- 7½ tables : use seven sets of 2 boards, 14 boards total and 7 tables
7-table Mitchell with NS Rover pair. Pair 8 NS is the Rover pair. It sits out the first round,
then plays following rounds at Table 2, 4, 6, 1, 3 and 5 (each time
bumping out for one round only the resident NS pair on that
table).
Rover Pair Guide cards (Print out in "Landscape" format)
- 8 tables : use 8 sets of 2 boards, total 16 boards
Table numbers : Tables 1 & 2 | 3 & 4 |
5 & 6 |
7 & 8 | 9 & 10 |
Use a 8-table Mitchell. EW pairs skip one table after 4 rounds played (so that they do not run into boards they have played already).
This ensures that all EW pairs play 14 boards when playing 7 rounds.
All players can play 16 boards in a final 8th round. But in such case the EW pairs will play their boards against the same NS pair they played against in the first round.
Alternatively you can do a Mitchell Share and Relay movement Boards layout
Place one set of boards (Boards 9 and 10) on a Bye between Tables 4 and 5, while Tables 1 and 8 share one set of boards each round. This way you can play 8 rounds without a skip for EW pairs and all EW pairs can play all 16 boards against all NS opponents.
- 8½ tables : 9 sets of 2 boards, 18 boards
total and 9 tables
Use a 9-table Mitchell.
EW Pair 19 starts at Table 9, which is the sit-out table
- 9 tables : 9 sets of 2 boards, 18 boards total
Normal 9-table Mitchell, no special requirements
- 9½ tables : use 9 sets of 2 boards, 18 boards total and 9 tables
Use a 9-table Mitchell with NS Rover pair. Pair 10 NS is the Rover pair. It sits out the first round,
then plays following rounds at Table 2, 4, 6, 8, 1, 3 and 5 (each time bumping out for one round only the resident NS pair on that
table).
Rover Pair Guide cards (Print out in "Landscape" format)
- 10 tables : use 10 sets of 2 boards, total 20 boards
10-table Mitchell. EW pairs skip one table after 5 rounds played (so that they do not run into boards they have played already).
This ensures that all EW pairs play 14 boards when playing 7 rounds.
The Arrow switch
With 5 or more tables in play you have two winning pairs (an NS
winning pair and an EW winning pair).
But if you prefer to have just one winning pair you
can do an "Arrow switch" during one round. Movements of boards
and players remain the same, but for one round NS players play
the EW hands and EW pairs play the NS hands.
With 5 to 8 tables you need to do
an Arrow switch for only one round. But you can do two if you
prefer. (In such case do the Arrow switch over the final two rounds to be played. This avoids players confusion.)
What else do you need ?
You need a competent Director who is familiar with the
Howell and Mitchell movements you use. He also should have a
working knowledge to solve the most common irregularities during
play.
You find various Directors materials (including the most common
rules on irregularities) here.
You also need a competent Scoremaster (this can be the
Director or someone else), who can do manual Match point
scoring if required, or can use a computer scoring program
(like ScoreBridge).
Instructions on how to score manually are here.
Finally it is essential for the continuation and growth of a
bridge club to have a competent Bridge teacher. Without it
a Bridge club membership gradually ages and diminishes. The
addition of fresh new blood is vital.
Any reasonably experienced player with a taste for teaching and
presentation can fulfill such role. There are suffcient
teaching materials online here and here to assist you in such task. And when really desperate, you can always ask me.
©2016 Michael Furstner
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