Christine in Africa - Uganda
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Gorillas in the mud - South Africa - Namibia 1 | 2 | 3 - Botswana 1 | 2 - Home
Uganda, November 16, 2014
My week in Uganda is coming to a close. I have a flight at 0700 tomorrow morning to Johannesburg and tonight is my last night in Uganda - also known as the "Pearl of Africa"
When I was planning this trip, no one in my circle of friends or any of my work colleagues have been to Uganda. A common retort back to me when people heard I was planning to go to Uganda was "WHY" "What is there it see in Uganda" "Is it safe?" "What about ebola?"
This is what I have learnt about Uganda:
Firstly, it is very safe in the areas I travelled to. Of course you need to keep away from the Northern section which shares a border with South Sudan as there are occasional incursions by the military and rebels. In the week I have been here I was only slightly concerned on one occasion when I had stopped for a lunch break at a lodge overlooking the Kazinga Channel. A huge, and I mean huge Maribou stork (stands about 1 meter high) took a liking to my lunch. I had to scare it away and then I hightailed it out of there and finished lunch in the inside restaurant :)
English is widely spoken. It is the main language of commerce, education, politics and tourism. I never had any problems getting people to understand me. There are also many, many dialects spoken. My guide told me that he speaks 14 dialects in addition to English. I felt rather pathetic when he questioned what languages I spoke. My smattering of tourist Indonesian and Spanish just seemed so insignificant.
Life in Uganda for the average person is very hard. There is no system of social security, education is free but the public education system is very basic. This morning we passed by a quarry. Picture this, people actually breaking the stones sitting down with hammers. The stones are broken down into smaller pieces and then graded according to the size.
I also passed by a timber mill. There was no circular saw or chainsaw in sight. The logs were placed on a high platform. There was a man on top of the platform with a large two ended saw and there was a man below the platform holding the other end of the saw. They split the logs in a sawing up and down motion.
There are eucalyptus trees everywhere in Uganda. They were introduced in the 1950's as a quickly grown cash crop for the local people and as a means to control erosion. After the rain the smell of the gum trees is quite overpowering and very surreal.
Ugandans walk everywhere! During the past week I have been in some very remote locations and then low and behold a person will just appear on the road side carrying a sheaf of logs, a basket of charcoal or baskets of vegetables. Often there were groups of children, some no more than 3 years old walking along the road.
Ladies in Uganda have equal rights and equal pay. It is rare for a lady in Uganda to drink coffee or to ride a bicycle as both are considered to be very unladylike.
Toilets........ I know travellers always have this sense of apprehension about toilets. I am happy to report that any of my preconceived ideas about toilets have been unfounded. Even the most out of the way toilets had toilet paper, disinfectant blocks and liquid soap. You either stop for a "short call" or a "long call". I will leave you to figure out which is which!
Wi fi is available literally everywhere and it is free. We could learn a lot about that in Australia. How many times do we have to pay for wifi even when we are staying at the flashiest hotels and they still try and sting for wifi?
No smoking anywhere
In 8 days in Uganda I never saw anyone smoking! Apparently 4 years ago the President declared a "jihad" on smoking in public. Ugandans have enough challenges without the public health and individual health issues that smoking tobacco brings. If you smoke you do so in your house as it is illegal to smoke in public. If you have a tobacco related health condition then you are required to pay for your own health care. There is no advertising for tobacco, I never saw cigarettes in the shops. Phase two of the Presidents tobacco "jihad" is to have it completely banned from the country!
- Some other random information and trivia:
- The national emblem is the Ugandan Crane
- The national soccer team is called the Ugandan Cranes
- There are no Zebras of Giraffe in Uganda
- No one talks about Idi Amin
- Police Officers wear white uniforms which are always in pristine condition
- 60% of the worlds 860 remaining Mountain Gorillas are located in Uganda
- Petrol is the equivalent of $1.70 per litre
- 600ml bottle of coca cola is the equivalent of 40 cents.
Cheers and best wishes, Christine
Gorillas in the mud
I though you might be interested in my gorilla trekking account....
I did not sleep that well the night before trekking. I kept wondering just how difficult it was going to be. Maybe I have read too many trip reports on Trip Advisor from people who have also trekked in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The accounts ranged from "definitely the most difficult challenge I have ever set myself" to "if you have a reasonable level of fitness - no problems."
I set off with my guide at 0730 to rendezvous at the Forest Headquarters. There are a limited number of trekking permits allocated each day, and for the princely sum of $750US and 12 months notice you can secure a permit. At Forest Headquarters you are allocated into a group of 8 trekkers. Before hand you indicate to your guide how long you want to trek. I nominated 2 - 3 hours, but of course there is no guarantee that you will not be trekking for much longer as it all depends upon where the gorilla family you have been allocated to trek to are located in the forest.
I elected to hire a porter. The porters are local people who, for $15US per trek, will carry your day pack and help you up the steep sections. IT turned out that my porter, Pamela, was a blessing in disguise. In parts the path is very narrow and steep and with the recent rain (it is a rain forest after all) the path was very slippery, more than once I lost my footing and was "saved" by Pamela. There was one time however on the way down that I took a tumble off the path and had to quickly scramble about trying to find a hand hold which happened to be right into a patch of stinging nettles . But I digress.
After an uphill climb of about 90 minutes, the main guide radioed the advance party of trackers and it was with great excitement that we learned that the gorilla family we were tracking were about 15 minutes ahead of us.
Gorillas share 98% of human DNA and they are susceptible to the same range of communicable diseases as humans. We had a final briefing and were informed that we must keep at least 7 meters away from the gorillas and if they approached us we were not to touch them but of course they might touch us. If the Silverback charged, absolutely do not run, rather stay still and even better crouch down and do not make eye contact. So by this point I am getting a bit nervous.
Off down the final path and there right before my eyes was the SIlverback lying in a very small clearing being groomed by the dominant female. Such an amazing sight! To the right there were 5 other gorillas - a full grown male, a female and 3 juveniles. Lying around, playing, grooming each other and occasionally stopping what they were doing and taking notice of us. All the gorillas have different facial features and the guides can recognise each individual in the group. I have some amazing photos.
After locating the gorilla family you get to spend exactly 60 minutes observing them and then it is time to go.
The trek down the mountain from my perspective if much more difficult and you have to be very particular where you place your feet. I had purchased some very expensive hiking shoes last year when I went trekking in Peru in the Andes, and I am sad to say they just did not have the grip I needed going down the steep mountain paths. Interestingly the porters trek in gumboots, probably worth just a few Ugandan shillings at the store and it seemed that they had much better grip than my expensive shoes!
In total the trek last 6 hours and at the end I was completely buggered and filthy dirty but utterly exhilarated that I have seen the mountain gorillas of Uganda in their natural habitat.
Christine.
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