1 - Stories from Galicia 1960 : by Michael Furstner ------------------------------------- Next - Contents
My friend Maria-Luz
The paseo used to be one of Spain's
nicest countrywide customs, and I assume it still is. Late afternoon
or early evening (around 5-6 PM) all the young girls in the town or
village make themselves pretty and stroll arm in arm in groups of
two, three or more, up and down the main street. The young (and not
so young) men, also cleaned up after work, sit outside on the Cafe
and Bar terraces and inspect the lovely passers by.
At the local Fiesta Maior (Birthday celebration of the town's
protective Saint) too, there was a paseo like stroll by the girls
before and in between every dance. The girls would stroll arm in arm
in groups of two or three up and down the dance area, usually the
town or village square. You could never ask a single girl out for a
dance but had to come up with a dance partner for all two or three of
them. Quite a good strategy which ensured that all girls, including
the not so pretty ones, would be dancing.
My University ('Pimpernel') Club friend and fellow geological
student Henk Rijks was fortunate to have his assigned
fieldwork area right on the North coast of Galicia, where he
based himself in the tiny lovely fishing village of
Caión (sardines, sardines, sardines!!!). I and another
geology student (Freddie Warnaars) had our field work areas
30-40 km inland, halfway between Carballo and Santiago
.Not surprisingly therefore Freddie and I
regularly spent the weekends with Henk in Caión, especially
during its full week long Fiesta Major.
I will never forget my first Fiesta Major at
Caión in 1960.
In the evening dancing commenced in the central village square while
I was sitting in one of the bars having a quiet drink with some of
the locals. Suddenly Henk and Freddie came in excitedly. They had
found some girls who agreed to dance with them, but there were
three of them, one with glasses on for which they needed to find a
partner. In those days (much unlike now) all eye glasses were
revoltingly ugly and any girl's absolute worst enemy. But never
mind, I complied to do my duty as a good friend and be the third man
for the ugly duckling.
We started dancing and for a while I kept looking around, taking no notice of my dance partner. But eventually I looked down at her and could not believe my eyes. She had taken off her glasses and I instantly recognised her, it was the girl from the beach this morning ! I immediately took charge of her glasses, not to be seen again for the rest of the night.
After the dance my friends strolled up to us, and, to my great
satisfaction, saw their eyes pop out off their sockets. I had
without a doubt landed the most beautiful girl of the evening. I am
by no means a Don Juan, on the contrary, but this girl liked me too,
much preferring me over the others, which was extra salt in my
friends wounds.
Marie Luz invited me to come for lunch
next day at their rented holiday house just 5 km
East along the coastal road (at the letter A on the map) where she was staying with her family.
Freddie, who had been dancing with Marie Luz's sister was
invited too. Nevertheless we both looked all fired up when we
returned from the beach and her Dad who saw what was about to happen
immediately ordered the whole family to pack their bags. The holiday
was over, cut short by several days, and within half an hour they
had all disappeared.
The following year I was again in Caión for its Fiesta. Marie
Luz had gone to study in France (she had indicated this wish to me
the previous year), but I danced and talked with her sister. By this
time I was seriously involved with my wife to be Antien.
PS : July 2010 My former fellow student and geology colleague Charley Arps has just returned from a holiday in Galicia. Passing through Caión he was kind enough to take several photos for me there, including a nice shot of Caión's main beach and of the market square where I danced with Maria-Luz (and one year later also with my wife to be Antien.) This story about Maria Luz, together with my other Caion story about Joseliño, was published in Dutch in 'Veldwerk Deel 2 - Lustrum Gedenkboek van de Leides Geologische Vereniging' in 2010. Copyright © 2010 Michael Furstner
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