Biographical Log of Michael
Furstner - Page 316
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Friday September 15,
2017
(diary)
Glotterstüble in Glottertal
We did have dinner in the Glotterstüble in Glottertal and what a lovely place it is ! Most restaurants in Germany, and certainly those in this region, make a huge effort to decorate their rooms will all sorts of knick-knacks, furniture and lighting, doing their very best to make you feel "gemütlich" (at home). The Glotterstüble is certainly that.
And finally a pfifferlingen dish, shown on the right, I heartily could enjoy. Pfifferlingen in a cream sauce accompanied with kartoffelpuffen. These potatoe cakes combine deliciously with the pfifferlingen. My mother used to make these and I absolutely love them. Grated raw potatoes, which are then moulded into thin pancakes and fried in the pan containing little oil. I had a crack at them myself a couple of times in Australia, but always made the pancakes to thick so that the inside was not cooked properly.
While writing I spelled the name wrong as "pfefferlingen". It made me suddenly realize that perhaps this is what they originally were called. Eaten raw they do have a distinct peppery taste.
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Saturday September 16,
2017
(diary)
Sandbar Cafe on the Titisee
Friday morning the sun was shining, so I decided to have a crack at the Bärental to Titisee walk. This is a 6.5km walk with the first 3.5km descending through forest to the Sandbar Cafe right on the Titisee shore (shown above). From there it is another 3km to the popular tourist town of Titisee. My plan was to walk to the Sandbar Cafe, have a meal or drink there and either walk on, or phone my sister to pick me up from there.
(In German "See" means "lake", while "Meer" means "sea".)
I do love the forest here. The undergrowth generally consists of mosses, low blue berry bushes and leaves with an abundance of tiny streams, bubbling their way down to the valley. Although the Dutch forest I grew up in is somewhat different, this moist and fresh environment feels like vitamins for my soul. Perhaps there is an ancient DNA connection here with my early ancestors, who may have roamed through forests like these as foresters.
But what once was an easy three quarter hour walk, turned out to be a full hour longer than usual and I was tired and very glad when my sister picked me up from the Sandbar Cafe. I had been walking on and off with a German couple, also both in their 80s (86 and 82). They were also tired and when I spotted the couple on the road we offered them a lift to Titisee which they gladly accepted.
Schluchsee
This morning (Saturday) the weather still looked good, so I decided to test myself out once more. This time on the 4.5km walk from Aha to Schluchsee walk, a rather flat and comfortable trail right along the lake's edge. Perhaps it was "a bridge too far". What was a comfortable walk easily accomplished within one hour three years ago, this time took me 2½ hours to complete, leaving me absolutely exhausted at the end of it. My body clearly is telling me something :"Michael, you can act as young as you like, but I have had enough of this, so please slow down!"
Of course I have several "old-age" malfunctions of my body, but this is probably the only one I really do mind a bit. Still I got the message and will in future do my walking exercises, but within reason.
After some Wienerle with Kartoffelsalat and a quarter liter of dry red Spätburgunder (as usual in the Schluchsee Railway station). I board the train back to Kirchzarten where Wivica will pick me up. Immediately I find myself in company of a group of older German walkers and before I know it join in the discussion and have a great time. The lady of the group sitting next to me right on the window is poised to take a photo of the famous deer, which according to legend jumped right across the Höllental gorge (there only 7m wide) to escape a group of chasing hunters. From the train you can spot it, but only for a few moments when the train comes out off one tunnel and just before it enters an other. Despite all my instructions (heartily enjoyed by all in the group) her photos turn out not all that good, but it was raining and dark. Never mind, I don't think my first attempt to photograp this elusive object was successful either. When I get up to leave at my station I say goodbye to smiling faces all around.
When I get home I take a long hot shower to warm myself, then sleep for a couple of hours. When I wake up, an answer (always there, but never really expressed) suddenly comes to my mind.
A few days ago I am having a cup of coffee in a bistro with Wivica and one of her lady friends. The lady asks me : "Michael. what are your interests in life ?" I just raise my shoulders, for what answer should I give ?
But after the train ride, and other occurrences here in Germany I can truly answer : "To open up and explore the other souls of my being". Mijas, so close to the Costa del Sol with its population of various Northern Europeans as well as Spaniards, perhaps is a good location for that.
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Sunday & Monday, September 17 & 18,
2017
(diary)
Vinolivio Restaurant
Sunday is overcast with little rain and I spend most of the day recovering from my previous two days walking. But in the evening we go to a new restaurant Wivica says I need to see. It is in fact a new extension to a huge nursery-garden supplies-decorations place in Schallstadt, just South of Freiburg. I went there 3 years ago and purchased several home decorations to take home to my children.
The newly built restaurant attached to it is huge. A high, modern, all glass building containing several trees including palm trees. Its name, Vinolivio, suggests Italian and they do have some pasta on the menu, but also flammkuchen, a typical South German (pizza like) dish and other dishes. We both have a pasta and much enjoy it.
Monday Wivica and I drive to Schwarzwald City a wonderful shopping centre in the heart of Freiburg. As I walk around there the following question comes to my mind :
If you had to describe Germany with just one word, what would it be ? Quality !! The contrast, after arriving from Darwin especially is enormous. Homes, cars, IT, food, restaurants, fashion (especially ladies clothing) and jewelry (!!!) all ooze quality as well as style.
A surge of regret goes through my mind every time I look at ladies dresses display in a shop window, for there is no-one in my life at present I could buy something for. I have a somewhat lesser pang in my heart when I look at jewelry shop windows. The jewelry here is stylish and exquisite, but mostly too expensive for me to splash out on as a pensioner.
But something I can enjoy by myself are the wines. The wines in Germany are highly underrated elsewhere in the world. Perhaps this is because they only export the cheap stuff and drink the good wines themselves. I discovered this first in Altenahr on the Ahr river and at the start of the "Rote wine Strasse" (Red wine street). Herr Mannsteadt, owner of the Hotel zum Schwarzen Kreuz introduced me to my first sample of the famous German Spätburgunder red wines. It was a real eye opener.
Then that same year (2008) I visited Bernkastel-Kues on the Mosel river, where Peter Nelius (wine maker and hotel owner) gave me a guided tour through his "Schatskammer", the cellar underneath his hotel with wines from as far back as 1934. In the week that I was there Peter and I had many discussions and ended up drinking Brudershaft, still an important ritual of close friendship amongst older Germans.
Here you find some info regarding the seven quality levels of German wine, both white and red, I recorded in my Blog at that time. Peter also has a beautiful collection of Ofentafeln displayed in his hotel which I photographed and included in my Blog.
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Tuesday & Wednesday, September 19 & 20,
2017
(diary)
The weather is definitely nothing to write home about at present : mostly overcast with intermitted rain. So Tuesday I stay inside and work on my laptop. I promised myself I would convert my on line music lessons (more than 80 at my last count) into eBooks. But it is a very boring and not really creative job, so it may not eventuate as long as I can find something else I can write about.
Something is working itself out way back in my brain. In time I will be able to gradually extract it just by starting to write. (An amazing process, similar to novelists where the characters they created take control of the writing).
On Tuesday evening Wivica picks me up with the car and we have a pleasant dinner at the Jägershaus Restaurant in Sankt Peter. They have a nice pfifferlingen dish which I much enjoy.
The forecast for the rest of the week looks positive. So today (Wednesday) I walk to the bus stop to catch the bus and train to Titisee. The sun is occasionally getting through, but it is still pretty cold (11°C). When I arrive at Titisee (nearly 900 m asl) it is even colder. I promised myself I would do some walking exercises, but within reason.
Titisee is probably the most touristy place in the Black Forest, but its shops are somewhat unusual. Lots of cheap clothing shops competing for attention with quality butchers with an enormous range of Black Forest meats : bacon, hams, sausages, prime cuts of meat, even deer. And of course more cuckoo clocks (in all shapes, sizes and prices) everywhere than you can poke a stick at. Near the lake the shops get more serious, catering especially for the numerous Japanese tourists visiting here. You can spend lots of money here on watches, jewelry, clothes and the likes. Hogo Boss, Cartier, Frey Wille (enameled colourful jewelry I absolutely love). An Omega Constellation watch (like George Clunee's) will set you back a cool €76,000. A range of Omega de Ville watches are also on display. I bought one for my 60th birthday (solid 18 carat gold) in Maroochidore. Twenty years later it is still going well. Could not spot what they would cost now, but I imagine at least double the $3,000 I paid for mine at the time.
I find the Bistro zum See, where I had a Himbeertraum# three years ago. It is not on the menu, but the waitress assures me they still have it. So I order one, together with a Glüwein and their Wienerle with Kartoffelsalat. Afterwards I find it somewhat of a struggle to get back to the Railway station, but do manage it and eventually arrive back home.
# I can't help myself, perhaps especially here in Germany. After I receive my Himbeertraum, which bouquet smells delicious, I get others at two nearby tables (I have become involved with talking to) to come and smell it too. They happily oblige and with a big smile agree with me : delicious !
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Thursday & Friday, September 21 & 22,
2017
(diary)
There is a fantastic shop in Freiburg the type of which I have never seen anywhere before. They specialise in selling maps from all over the world as well as all guide books etc. related to travel regions.
My sister Wivica has previously purchased detailed maps of Bali and Central Vietnam for me here. This week I bought a Michelin map of the Costa del Sol ("6" on the map) where I arrive next Wednesday. I photographed and enlarged part of it covering the region surrounding Mijas and uploaded it on the bridge4u website.
Thursday Wivica and I drive by car to the Schluchsee ("60" on the map). We park at Aha to board the cruise ship for a 1½ hour trip around the lake. It is a very pleasant and restful experience with beautiful scenery floating by all around. The clear blue sky, without a single cloud in sight, heightens the experience. Afterwards we drive around through some beautiful Black Forest countrysides.
Friday the weather is still very good, sunshine and a blue sky. We drive around and Wivica introduces me to two of her closest lady friends. We also visit the art materials wholesaler Boesner just south of Freiburg. They have a huge store with virtually everything any painter, other graphic artist, potter or sculptor could possibly want. The above photo shows only about a quarter of the store size and the range of materials on offer, very impressive.
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© 2017 Michael
Furstner
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