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Saturday March 8, 2008
(food, oysters, bio, diary, Weltschmerz)
Australia has an abundance of seafoods and Australians love and greatly
value it. For oyster lovers like me it is an absolute paradise. I found this
out shortly after arriving in Australia in 1966 when I joined BHP as a
geologist to work on their four underground coal mines in Newcastle
(NSW).
Just North of Newcastle, across the Hunter river lies the Australian
Air force base Williamstown. Babette's partner Doug was based
there while in the Air force in the 70s. There was a (then) small country
road leading to the base and less than 10 km North of Newcastle was on the
left hand side a small petrol station. We must have stopped there
once to fuel up I suppose. Just outside the door into the office (to pay
for the petrol) and covered by an old damp hessian bag was this large
wooden crate full of oysters, "Six bob and
dozen" the attendant tells us. Only 60 cents ??!!
After that discovery I made regular trips there on a weekend filling an esky
with 8 dozen of these Sydney Rock oysters. Two dozen each, for
Bass and Jantien Hensen (a fellow geologist from Leiden who arrived
in Newcastle just two weeks after us) and Antien and myself. We had
to clean and open the oysters ourselves, and soon we learned to do that
expertly with oyster knives and garden gloves to protect our hands. Major
feast every time and complemented of course by lots of wine from the nearby
Hunter Valley.
My mother too loved oysters. She came to visit us
first in Kalgoorlie (WA in 1970) and later in PNG and Canberra. And every
time we went out for dinner she would order one dozen oysters for entree and
a second dozen as a main course.
These days the Sydney Rock oysters
have dropped to second best, in preference for the much larger Pacific
oysters and most of all the Coffin Bay oysters. Coffin Bay is a
small village on the West coast of the Eyre Peninsula (SA), a mere 30 km NW of Port
Lincoln (the "Tuna Capital" of Australia). It lies near the mouth of a
large inlet opening up to the Great Australian Bight, one of the most
pristine, clear and pollution free coastline hugging seas in the world
today. Seafood from the Bight is therefore as clean and fresh as you ever
can get it anywhere.
I passed through Coffin Bay in December 2002 when I was traveling and
camping round Australia. I entered the sleepy village at noon, and asked in
a shop advertising oysters for sale if they could open some for me. No, they
could not do that they said. I tried another shop, same story, but a small
restaurant, The Oyster Beds, appropriately located right opposite
some oyster beds in the bay had a lunch special on : Half a Dozen Oysters
plus a Glass of Wine for only $6.50.
I go inside and order a double
portion of the Special. I am the only customer that afternoon and the owner
John Versteeg (a Dutchman like myself) sits with me and we have a
long chat in our mother tongue. He has come to an arrangement with the shop
owners in town. None of them will sell opened oysters, so that tourists come
to his restaurant instead. It worked with me, but I am not complaining, a
full dozen oysters with two liberal glasses of whine and fresh bread for
just $13.- is great value no matter how you looked at it.
Today I pick up two dozen of Coffin Bay's finest from the local fish shop
Ron's Seafood in Kunda Park on my way back from the Surf Club. I have
been going to that shop for years. The new owner lets me have a taste of her
home made chowder, which is quite nice and I promise to come back another
day and buy some.
Back at ThreePonds I prepare half a dozen Kilpatricks each for
Babette and myself.
The other half dozen we keep natural to try out some new dressing Babette
got from her Japanese fishmonger in Brisbane. It is Tetsuya's Vinaigrette
for Oysters. Tetsuya is a top class Japanese Restaurant in Sydney, which
also produces and distributes some of their own designed dressings and
sauces.
We pour it over the oysters together with some lemon and ground pepper. The
combination is nice. I like it.
We finish our meal with some Zara Somen, cold thin rice noodles,
sprinkled with nouri flakes, which we dip in the soy sauce and rice wine
vinegar marinade before eating it. I love it.
When I was a child I often cried, a form of Weltschmerz, "sorrow for
the World", that bitter sweet feeling of the totality of human experiences,
life and emotions : joy - pain - love - sorrow. Later I managed to bottle
up these emotions and did not shed a single tear for 30 odd years or so.
Then, after my mid life crisis at 43, the tears came again. In fact the flood
gates have been fully open ever since. It is of course wonderful,
because with the flood of tears come the emotions, which are so immensely
important in one's life. It is Weltschmerz again, but of a different kind.
As a child I only could sense it of course, but now after years of growing,
I have experienced it first hand.
We watch a movie on TV tonight, The Russia House with Shawn Connery
and Michelle Pfeifer. As soon as the music starts, the low sounds, the
haunting soprano (describing everything what life's emotions are all about)
the tears come to my eyes. Later on reflection I realise that for me this
is a movie (perhaps the only one I ever saw) where the roles of the
visual and the music are reversed. It is the story which supports
the music, rather than the other way around.
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Sunday March 9, 2008
(diary)
I don't like going to the Mooloolaba Surf Club on a Sunday. It is always very crowded and there is also a duo playing which more often than not is too loud and only moderately tolerable at best. So I stay at home today, work on my Blog and sort out the shoe box full of slides I have. I manage to get through half of it today, about 400 slides. Most are from Newcastle and Kalgoorlie, some also from Yonki and Canberra, even Gertha's wedding (my late sister in law). I select 150 slides for conversion into digital. All up i will probably do this for 250 to 300 slides.
Babette shows me how to get onto the wireless network at ThreePonds. I gave it to them last year, but until today have been using my dial up connection which is rather slow. Quite simple, just pressing a computer button I did not know what it was for and off you go.
In the afternoon we have a few visitors for a drink. Naomi and her mum, and Colin too pops in to check out the new pickup for his guitar which is making a buzzing noise. After they leave we have Ramen and karage chicken for dinner in front of the TV while watching the second part of Jekyll with Bob Nesbitt. Final episode is next week.
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Monday March 10, 2008
(diary)
A few solid shower downpours in the morning again, then mostly overcast the
rest of the day. I take 140 slides for conversion into digital to the shop
in Forest Glen and promise a similar load tomorrow. They can't do the large
negatives I gave them (their machine is to small for it) so I take those to
Camera House in Maroochydore. Also get my Travel insurance organised with
Joanne at Flight Center.
Babette and I both are somewhat anxious
about giving the Martinshof jewelry to an unknown jeweler. So I check out a
few more and end up with Mark and Shelley Evans in Cotton Tree. Mark
is the goldsmith, while his wife Shelley runs the jewelry shop. Mark does
not want to do the repair job as he believes the silver will get too hot and
may damage the gem stones in the necklace. He recommends another business
who can repair the link with a laser which does not uses heat. Modern
technology has reached even the goldsmith bench these days. I promise to
come back next day with the rest of the collection, as he is happy to clean
and if necessary oxidise that.
Babette is gone to Sydney today, back Wednesday night. Doug rings me from
his skype laptop and tells me he will be back next week Tuesday. I
downloaded the skype software today too, but my voice is not picked
up by the computer it seems. Probably another undiscovered knob somewhere I
have to find and press. I go through the rest of my box of slides and select
another 140 for digitising.
Online I make contact with two hotels in
Germany I selected from my Lonely Planet Guide (great reference
books they are). One is Hotel Schwarzen Kreuz in Altenahr on the Ahr
river. I went through that valley on a geology excursion many years ago
during my student days, found it very pretty and liked it. The other is in
the Mosel valley, Hotel Sankt Maximillian in Bernkastel-Kues, which
has a winery attached as well. I will probably spend 5-7 days in each of
these during late April or early May, after first settling in at my sister
Wivica's place in the Black Forest for a week or so.
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Copyright © 2008 Michael Furstner